Stone Island

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Stone Island Carlo Rivetti Interview

During Milan’s famed Design Week, we stopped by Stone Island’s “Reflective Research” exhibition to speak with the brand’s proprietor on everything from working with New York streetwear royalty to educating at the local Polytechnic College.

As one of the clothing industry’s leading innovators, Stone Island’s man on the helm, Carlo Rivetti, knows a factor or two about fabrics. Approaching the world of trend with the mindset of an industrial designer, Stone Island has rightfully earned its position as streetwear’s technical leader over the course of 30-some-odd years. Stone Island even collaborated with Supreme not once, but twice over the past yr, cementing their place in the present vogue panorama.

Although we just lately dove into their huge archive and captured Mr. Rivetti in a latest Road Type, we’ve only just scratched the surface of the heralded Italian label. To search out out more, we sat down with Mr. Rivetti at Stone Island’s “Reflective Research” exhibition. Test it out under.

Are you able to please introduce your self to our readers
Hello, my title is Carlo Rivetti and I am the Creative Director and President (precisely in that order) at Stone Island. (laughs)

Describe your day-to-day duties.
I work with the design team. We work altogether both in Milano and in Ravarino the place we now have the factory. Because I am the oldest with expertise, I attempt to provide route to the younger guys in the design group. The design group is made up of four completely different folks; so four completely different ages and four completely different nationalities. So I’m very involved to know the opinions and point of views of all of these individuals. It’s my job to attempt to put these ideas into a Stone Island atmosphere.

In your phrases, what is Stone Island
Stone Island is something unique. If you want single items then each single piece in the collection has a which means. We aren’t following the market – we try to do what we feel is fascinating. It’s a type of club between people who understand the product, which isn’t usually understandable. You must be curious and perceive that an orange jacket is not always an orange jacket.

What makes something difficult to grasp with clothing
Occasions have modified too much. Individuals are more superficial and don’t have a lot time to speculate. Everything becomes so quick, in contrast with the previous. We’ve to alter the way in which of speaking to individuals – you have to develop into rapidly comprehensible. You need to hit and surprise people so they are excited about understanding the method and every little thing.

Do you suppose the way in which you attain individuals has modified By means of social media, for instance
Sure, for sure. Also as a result of we speak lots on social media, we attempt to indicate how we do the garment. We had been very effective on this because we added a brand new age goal. We at the moment are talking to younger people and this to me might be crucial factor.

Do you attain out to younger folks in a special way The brand new clients, for example The those who don’t necessarily know the history of Stone Island

Not necessarily in a special method. I feel younger people are very excited by tales. Relating to the younger people in the Italian market over the past 10 years, they have been very saved by marketed merchandise and now they’re way more involved in actual products.

Up to now you’ve referred to Stone Island as masculine. What’s your idea of masculinity
Masculinity is a man who walks in the road and does not have a specific value. You see a lot of different individuals sporting Stone Island – I see beautiful women carrying Stone Island and I believe that the most stunning girls are those carrying men’s products. I don’t actually have a goal of masculinity. I simply really feel proud when i see somebody sporting my stuff. We don’t target our buyer.

It seems you method the design of your product more in the way of industrial design moderately than style design

Completely correct. In reality, throughout Vogue Week we didn’t do a show or catwalk. We didn’t do something. We just opened an area and we were there explaining the product. I feel way more confident with industrial design than the style system.

Why did you decide to exhibit your reflective know-how for Salone del Mobile
That is a call that was taken by my wife – she can also be part of the design crew. She needed to do that exhibition. In a word, it is a product of the mind of the design workforce. I never enter into one of these decision as a result of I’m interested by doing product so with this kind of communication I leave it to my spouse, Sabina.

When you’re doing analysis on new fabrics and new techniques, are there some other industries that you’re taking inspiration from

A variety of design groups from different sectors come into ours showrooms and clearly I am very inquisitive about understanding Footwear it extra. We say that is technology but this is barely know-how in textile. You’ve got technology in other industries: cars, footwear. For example, I noticed these sunglasses and then had to find out how they work. So we are able to see these technologies in several sectors and take from them and they’ll take from us. It’s a kind of change of experience. If you wish to be progressive you may have to stay awake and alert to the world.

I see beautiful ladies sporting Stone Island and I think that the most beautiful women are those sporting men’s merchandise

Had been you referring to the Recon Jet sunglasses
Sure. Lovely design, wonderful advertising. So it’s one of these thing. How can I work with these folks and the varieties of technologies they’re utilizing Can I use this kind of know-how in a garment I feel the thing with innovation is one thing it is advisable to work on so I at all times tell my staff, “don’t look again, at all times look in front. As a result of the longer term is in the future, not the previous.”

In a previous interview you talked about that a giant revolution for you guys occurred in 2003 if you discovered how one can dye polyester at 130 degrees Celsius. Why was that such an necessary innovation

Because before we could solely dye the natural fiber – there is a large quantity of fabric in fiber but when we also started to dye manmade fiber, we opened a totally new area of analysis – polyester, nylon, non-woven fabrics – so once more, we begin from zero, with the expertise of natural fiber and have a totally new area of experience. I am additionally attracted by the fact there are new fibers and the way they will react to the dying. Also the dying is changing because we are working at a lower temperature, new nano-supplies – both in fabrics and in dye.

What about these type of hype applied sciences like 3D printing. Is that one thing that pursuits you
Sure, we now have started researching. It’s very good as a result of we reside in an interesting technological area. We have a number of very small companies that are very flexible so we are starting to work with them to see how we are able to fit this system into the garment.

A colleague of mine wrote a bit on future trend technologies like self-healing fabric. Have you ever heard of this

Yes. I call these intelligent fibers or fabrics. They’ve an extended history. I’ve never seen them applied however assume they are going to be obtainable quickly. Anyway, we already talk about easy-care, anti-stain, that kind of thing. Can you imagine I saw the primary anti-stain fabric within the early ’60s So it’s there however technology is always evolving. We already have self-urgent garments and this wash-and-wear stuff. When you find out about these items you’ll be able to transfer with the innovations.

Are you continue to a Professor at the Polytechnic University
Yes, in fact.

What do you educate there
I am educating marketing – fashion advertising – and the course focuses on learning prototypes of garments. I exploit Stone Island for example but attempt not to affect the scholars so much. Since eighty% or so are womenswear, we even have marriage ceremony products.

Is there a sure brand you at all times talk about almost about advertising
I have lots of respect for Paul Smith. After which in fact I completely respect Yohji Yamamoto and the Japanese because they have a very incredible strategy to their job – they actually do their art in a novel manner. They don’t need to be commercial – they change into commercial and can make their dream a reality.

Have you ever discovered something of particular observe through your students
Sure. I remember a few years ago there was a student who was learning a garment for a chef – the concept was do a jacket that doesn’t smell. She found a filter in Japan that retains the smell. However then you’re taking the jacket and shake it out and the smell goes away. But of course, it’s a big Japanese firm and so they don’t care a couple of pupil from Polytechnic. So I said that Stone Island might be interested and I used to be very interested. So as a form of filter, I discovered a new material, she makes a fantastic garment and i get a brand new experience. You know, working with younger folks, even within the university – it retains you young.

What about the newest Supreme collaboration How did that come about
They approached us. To start with I was not sure if we may work together however then I flew to New York and met the staff. You realize, by no means put two guys with blue eyes in the same room. (laughs) They can kill each other or they will work very well collectively. Luckily, we had been the latter. James was blissful, I was pleased. I learned rather a lot. In the beginning it was not simple to grasp one another however now we are working very properly and I am very satisfied with the result. I believe stone island red jeans both entities had been versatile to respect the DNA of each brand and to make something that was very good.

What did you learn from working with them
I discovered to be very precise. I learned to not stop until you get hold of the perfect end result. I learned the best way to launch a product on the internet and understand the expectations of individuals working on paper, and understand the way in which we do the garment isn’t so exact, so we need to slightly change how we do the garment in order to attain the perfection Supreme have been expecting.

I completely respect Yohji Yamamoto and the Japanese as a result of they’ve a really incredible strategy to their job – they really do their artwork in a unique way.

Early you had been talking about approaching clothes design in an industrial approach. Are there some other merchandise that you’d like to explore

No, just clothes. I think it’s essential to do the job that you’ll be able to do.
There are loads other technical brands now who are doing this “direct to consumer” mannequin. Do you regulate these sorts of brands

I always look to all of the manufacturers which can be round. I believe you’ll be able to all the time learn from everyone – from active sport to skiing and surfing. I feel it started many years in the past. I additionally look on the army. After i journey the world, I try to see all of the several types of jackets that exist. Now the costumer can choose what they want and use it across the board. So a technical jacket can go right into a theatre and a motorbike jacket can go on top of a mountain. It’s about how the buyer desires to use it.

Do you think this is trend-based or does it reflect present lifestyles
I think it’s more of a pattern. It is one thing that folks will continue to do, and in someway, we’re serving to this trend because we’re doing garments which can be performing more and are more multipurpose.

Take a look at our visit to the brand’s archive right here and see our recent Road Model with Mr. Rivetti right here.

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