Stone Island: How The Brand Has Developed – Woodhouse Clothes
Stone Island’s brand ethos has been set in stone since the 1980s, but the label’s dedication to analysis implies that their collection is always fresh and exciting. With a dedicated world following and a back catalogue of 40,000 unique garments, Stone Island is in a league of its personal.
When CEO, Carlo Rivetti, was requested why Stone Island’s brand has remained so sturdy he said:
“Stone Island has always remained true to itself, with out concessions. And so we’ve got been in a position to rejuvenate our goal market of consumers; we reach out each to our historic clients, those who’ve faithfully stayed with us for thirty years, but additionally to the youthful crowd, to the brand new generations of as we speak.”
While different manufacturers have branched out to incorporate completely different types or expanded into unrelated markets, Stone Island has remained centered, with just the label’s persevering with research into fabrics and dyes pushing the model forward.
Stone Island Culture
Ice Jacket Wool Blend in Thermo-delicate Fabric
If you happen to look back at the final thirty years, the model started with jackets made from thick truck tarpaulin and continued to create heat-sensitive fabrics and Kevlar designs. It would be hard to foretell what comes next and that’s what makes the brand so exciting to observe.
The strength of the Stone Island, alongside the undeniable model of their clothes, has created a cult following – including celebrities corresponding to Noel Gallagher, Peter Hook and Chris Lowe. The brand has additionally been related to soccer fans – and infrequently soccer hooliganism – but the label has been fast to dissociate itself from the latter.
Inside Stone Island
As CEO Carlo Rivetti provides fans a video tour around Stone Island HQ, he describes his dyeing facility as a ‘kitchen’. Jackets are ‘cooked’ in ninety – 140 degrees and ‘recipes’ are adopted to create each shade of color.
However, to most individuals, Stone Island’s dyeing facility appears to be like extra like a chemistry lab. With row upon row of bottles, there’s a splash of just about every colour imaginable, and with spectacular equipment and weighty files of formulas, the ‘Colour Lab’ is evidently a place for experimentation.
And with so many colours packed into one room, Carlo Rivetti even claims it’s the closest factor to a renaissance painter’s workshop in the 21st century.
Texture and colour are the place to begin for each jacket. From there, the designers experiment to create a design that works. Some of their dyeing methods may cause as much as 50% shrinkage, so getting the design right is a complicated course of.
Each garment is made from a variety of different fabrics, all of which react to dyeing in a different manner – both in how they absorb colour or shrink during the method. stone island abbigliamento uomo Every jacket is sort of a journey of scientific discovery – and with their archive of 20,000 garments on site, you’ll be able to stroll by means of the historical past of their experimentation.
Over Thirty Years of Design
In 1982, Stone Island was launched by Massimo Osti, with their Tela Stella range. The brand’s name got here from the pages of Joseph Conrad’s novels – amidst 1000’s of phrases, ‘stone’ and ‘island’ were the most commonly occurring, and so the model was born.
The first collection was the result of analysis into a thick truck tarpaulin, which was resin-handled to be crimson on one side and blue on the other.
1983 – 1986
Carlo Rivetti joined Stone Island in 1983, already an enthusiastic fan of the model. By 1984, the collection had developed to incorporate jumpers, trousers, t-shirts and shirts.
It was also in 1984 that a second signature Stone Island fabric was launched, Raso Gommato – a cotton satin of navy origin, with polyurethane coating.
1987 – 1988
By research into heat-sealed PVC, Stone Island developed Glazed Silk Light, which is shiny trilobite nylon coated in PVC. The effect was a thick and glazed look.
1989 – 1991
In 1989, Stone Island launched the bottom-breaking Ice Jacket. With the event of a heat-sensitive fabric, Stone Island created a jacket which changed colour with the temperature.
From yellow to blue and from green to white, the Ice Jacket was a actually futuristic idea. Stone Island developed the design further to create patterned jackets which lost their pattern in the cold, changing into icy white with freezing temperatures.
Subsequent, Stone Island developed a highly reflective Japanese fabric, which achieved its luminescent glow through a coating of 1000’s of micro glass spheres. Impressed by work security jackets, this collection was extraordinarily eye-catching and was even capable of mirror gentle from very weak sources.
1993 – 1996
This was a time of nice change for Stone Island – Massimo Osti left the label and in his place, Englishman, Paul Harvey, joined the workforce and pushed the analysis ahead.
With an injection of new ideas, the next few years noticed an enormous variety of modern fabrics coming into the color Lab. The primary was Components Steel, a nylon canvas bonded to a polyurethane movie.
Intensive research also created Oltre, a high-quality nylon fabric with an extremely-shiny coating.
1997 – 1998
The research continued at a relentless pace, and in 1997, Stone Island designers utilized a Reverse Color Course of technique on the Raso Gommato fabric. First printed in black, the fabric then light utilizing a corrosion approach to be later over-dyed.
Nylana, a thick nylon canvas used to line tanks, also turned part of the collection during these years.
1999 – 2001
On the flip of the millennium, the Stone Island design workforce have been incredibly busy. Launching an enormous quantity of latest fabrics and designs in just two years, together with the Pure Steel Shell Silver and Pure Metal Shell Bronze (as shown above). These parkas had been created with both a hundred% stainless steel or a hundred% bronze metallic mesh, bonded to fabric.
Stone Island’s designers subsequent moved onto a fabric which is five occasions stronger than the identical weight in steel: Kevlar. As pictured above, Stone Island discovered a technique to dye this seemingly unimaginable material by means of adding a nylon mesh and a polyurethane coating.
Initially designed to be used on aeroplane circuit boards, Stone Island began to use silver spray on their assortment of high-quality polyester jackets, including a vacuum seal of a hundred% stainless seal.
The brand additionally launched their Ventile range, utilizing a army textile which was one hundred% cotton and developed for British fighter pilot’s overalls within the Second World War.
In 2002, the vary continued to broaden, with jackets engineered to look flat with a sequence of folds and seams adding element.
One other success story from this yr was the light Jacket. Continued research perfected the design – a white jacket with fibre optic mesh inserts that gentle up with blue mild.
The design staff additionally experimented with varied layers of meshes, which revealed the internal development of the jacket.
2003 – 2005
Stone Island perfected their Compact Process to create extraordinarily dense materials, which are boiled at 130 degrees and then shrink by up to 50%.
Mussoal Gommata was also launched, developed by laminating ultra-gentle cotton muslin to a matte polyurethane film.
2006 – 2007
The David TC Fabric was introduced, consisting of polyester, polyamide and Japanese microfiber, which was then dyed below pressure at 130 degrees.
Developing their portfolio of reflective jackets, Stone Island designed the Antiquated Reflective.
Paul Harvey left Stone Island in 2008 and Carlo Rivetti stepped into his shoes as Artistic Director. And in the identical year, the brand’s association with Aitor Throup was formed, creating the Stone Island Shadow Assortment.
2009 – 2011
Developing on their earlier heat-reactive Ice Jacket, Stone Island created a camouflage jacket which loses its sample within the cold.
The workforce additionally developed a new textile: Waxed Ice, which was cotton moleskin containing thermo-sensitive quartz and graphite.
2012 – 2013
For the S/S season in 2012, Stone Island launched the Prismatic Muslin, a light-weight cotton muslin, which was treated with coloured resins earlier than the fabric was laminated to provide a prism-effect polyurethane movie. The material can then be double-dyed to create a wide range of vibrant colours.
Next, Stone Island created the Hydrophobic Therapy, a course of which creates a garment that’s highly water-repellent and environmentally pleasant.
2012 marked the thirtieth anniversary of the model and celebrated with STONEISLAND30, a major exhibition at Stazione Leopolda in Florence. Alongside the exhibition, three symbolic garments have been created to reflect the historical past of Stone Island, together with a re-edition of Tela Stella.
Thirty years’ of research and forty,000 garments later, their current A/W assortment reflects this rich history of design. Browse the Stone Island A/W rangeand to see what the brand has to supply this year.
Garment Dyed Crinkle Reps NY
What’s subsequent for the Model
With a relentless drive towards creating new colours and materials, Stone Island is a brand all the time capable of shock. When requested what the longer term holds, Carlo Rivetti stated:
“We get impressed by people, structure and design. At current we’re currently learning some materials used within the automotive business. During the Olympics, the outfits the athletes wear are very technical, which can be inspirational.